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Martin Martin showed a gothy, mostly monochromatic, collection of men's and womenswear in black, white, and ivory. The label's forays with color—red and a selection of ombre pieces—proved less successful, and should have been edited out of the presentation, along with looks that repeated, which made for a very long show.
Ruching, a light quilting effect, draping and folds, plus the use of drawstrings and buckles offered plays on shape and volume throughout. Suiting was key—often paired with billowy skirts for women and in a number of different colorways for men. Along with blazers, quite a few leather jackets were also showcased, but we had the same problem with both—the models looked like they were swimming in them. Despite Martin Martin's apparent affection for structure, we found its softer pieces more appealing whether it be a flowy cotton skirt and cocoon jacket for women, or a men's sweatshirt quartered at the hood by exposed zippers.
· LA Fashion Week [Racked Archives]